Sign in
Explore Diverse Guest Blogging Opportunities on Our Online Diary Platform
Explore Diverse Guest Blogging Opportunities on Our Online Diary Platform
Your Position: Home - Welding Wires - Hardfacing, T-Bone and others
Guest Posts

Hardfacing, T-Bone and others

Oct. 07, 2024

Hardfacing, T-Bone and others

NC Wayne

JINHUA HARDFACING contains other products and information you need, so please check it out.

11-12- 22:02:00




The company is the world’s best Reliable Hardfacing Wire Supplier supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.

Report to Moderator
 Re: Hardfacing, T-Bone and others in reply to chvet73, 11-11- 20:00:49   I just looked at the literature from Stoody on the link below and your right, they call for 100-120 Amps for the 1/8 rod. If you look a little closer though when they tell you how to run it DC+ the first polarity listed and AC second. Usually when a mfg. does this they are meaning that the first thing listed (DC+) is the more recommended of the two and that the product will do best when used this way even though "acceptable" results can be obtained with the other choice. To me what your describing sounds like something that typically happens to a rod when it's used with the wrong polarity. By this I mean that due to the flow of the current the heat of the arc is being concentrated too much on the rod instead of on the base metal. Still, Stoody says that it can be run with AC so you should be able to do it like that. Since you have no other power supply other than your AC buzz box then you have no choice but to do it with AC. In that case my suggestion would be to keep the amperage down as low as possible and to experiment with holding different arc lengths as you run each pass. Just about every rod out there is gonna be a little different, and hard facing rods probably a little more so than most. In this case I think you need to keep the amps low and the arc as short as possible, but I could be wrong...like I said just experiment a little and see what works best for you. I've seen alot of hardfaced buckets in the quarries we work in but I've never actually seen one with "pretty" beads. If that's something your trying to make happen that may be another problem, you might need to speed up the passes and not worry so much about it being "pretty" as simply laying down a bead. Now depending on what part of the bucket your facing, there are alternatives. Typically when we redo a bucket we strip the bottom with 4" strips of preheat treated material. It's tough enough to last a fairely long time in normal usehowever if your moving highly abrasive material or scooping off a concrete par for instance, Cronatron has hard faced mild steel plate that you can use. All you have to do is lay the strip on and weld it with your average mild steel rod. I've seen their stuff used in a few EXTREME applications and I can say in all honesty it is GOOD STUFF. If your doing the inside of the bucket though your pretty much stuck right where you are now. One last thing I just thought about. I didn't see it called for in the literature,but then again I didn't look at all of it that close, but often it will call for the base metal to be preheated before welding. You didn't say wether or not you had done that and I don't think it is the cause of your problem, but it might not hurt to preheat the bucket before you start. Hope some of this helps. Let us know what you get worked out. Good luck, Wayne
  • Stoody Literature

If you want to learn more, please visit our website china saw hardfacing flux cored wire.

[Log in to Reply]  [No ]

Comments

0 of 2000 characters used

All Comments (0)
Get in Touch

  |   Transportation   |   Toys & Hobbies   |   Tools   |   Timepieces, Jewelry, Eyewear   |   Textiles & Leather Products   |   Telecommunications   |   Sports & Entertainment   |   Shoes & Accessories   |   Service Equipment