Power Tool Batteries & Chargers

Amp hours indicate how long a battery can power a device before it needs to be recharged. The higher the amp-hour rating of a battery, the longer it will last before it needs to be recharged.

The company is the world’s best craftsman batteries supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.

As a rough estimate, a battery with a rating of 5Ah can deliver 5 amps of current for about one hour, or 1 amp of current for about 5 hours, before it needs to be recharged. Similarly, a battery with a rating of 10Ah can deliver 10 amps of current for about one hour, or 1 amp of current for about 10 hours, before it needs to be recharged.

They are an important consideration when choosing a battery, as they determine how long the device can operate before the battery needs to be recharged.

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cwhocares40 said:

I have a Craftsman 20 volt Bolt-on Model 900.16496. The trigger no longer works. Any ideas on where to get parts or how to repair?

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Are you certain it is the trigger that failed? Have you taken it out and electrically tested, isolated that it it is the switch instead of the transistor on the separate metal slug attached to this assembly? That's a very useful thing to do because the transistor can be replaced separately, is not a Sears part # but given enough info a suitable replacement could be found on an electronics supplier site for a buck or two plus postage, but depending on how they manufactured it, may or may no require some soldering, or may just be a connector that slips onto the transistors legs, which is what it looks like in the video linked below.

While you have it out, get the part # off the switch, and manufacturer if that is shown.

I saw a video where someone repaired a broken wire going to the motor, if you are uncertain it's the trigger switch that failed you might check for that too, but in the video I saw no part # visible but if the same as yours, offers a pretty good look at the form factor so should allow you to make a match if you find some listing on amazon or ebay that isn't specific to the Craftsman models it works with.

The other option is see if the switch assembly can be opened, hopefully after isolating it to the switch (really probably more of a potentiometer), whether there is a mechanical failure or just something like a carbon track buildup or wiper that needs some tension added to it, or if non-recoverable such as severe scorch part or molten plastic preventing alignment of the assembly.

There's really too many directions to go in without your already doing more investigative work and/or telling us what that uncovered. More details. Maybe that is just a waste of time but it's the usual place to start to make it easier for us to help.

I could go on and on speculating but it may not be productive without more info. I mean I know in the ideal world we all just want the link to the part to swap but when it's not so simple to find that, the devil is in the details to work with what you have.

Are you certain it is the trigger that failed? Have you taken it out and electrically tested, isolated that it it is the switch instead of the transistor on the separate metal slug attached to this assembly? That's a very useful thing to do because the transistor can be replaced separately, is not a Sears part # but given enough info a suitable replacement could be found on an electronics supplier site for a buck or two plus postage, but depending on how they manufactured it, may or may no require some soldering, or may just be a connector that slips onto the transistors legs, which is what it looks like in the video linked below.While you have it out, get the part # off the switch, and manufacturer if that is shown.I saw a video where someone repaired a broken wire going to the motor, if you are uncertain it's the trigger switch that failed you might check for that too, but in the video I saw no part # visible but if the same as yours, offers a pretty good look at the form factor so should allow you to make a match if you find some listing on amazon or ebay that isn't specific to the Craftsman models it works with.The other option is see if the switch assembly can be opened, hopefully after isolating it to the switch (really probably more of a potentiometer), whether there is a mechanical failure or just something like a carbon track buildup or wiper that needs some tension added to it, or if non-recoverable such as severe scorch part or molten plastic preventing alignment of the assembly.There's really too many directions to go in without your already doing more investigative work and/or telling us what that uncovered. More details. Maybe that is just a waste of time but it's the usual place to start to make it easier for us to help.I could go on and on speculating but it may not be productive without more info. I mean I know in the ideal world we all just want the link to the part to swap but when it's not so simple to find that, the devil is in the details to work with what you have.

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