What type of pipe for 180' well?
What type of pipe for 180' well?
I'm wondering: Is this type of pipe system common going down a well? Is it safe? Should I go back to black polyethelene?
They also sold me all new copper wire, I thought the old wire looked fine, I wondered about that too. Bill I think you were taken, especially if there was nothing visually wrong with the pipe or cable. PE has been used for 50 years and down to 500'. If you should go back to PE, use 160 psi rated 1". There's n reason to go to 1.25", which you probably have because your pump will have a 1.25" outlet.
Since you have a leak the water will run out of the pipe as you pull it, at least down to the leak and it might be the check valve so the whole thing will weigh less. Two guys should be able to lift it and you could buy a Steel vise-type grip wrench to hold it from falling down the well when you unscrew each section.
Here's the wrench.
http://www.campbellmfg.com/catalog/r05.htm The wire that was changed, did it have a green ground wire on it?(the wire that was in your well before it was pulled)
If your old wire did not have this green wire, by law/code it should be changed. But only if your wire did not have this ground wire.
When the well co pulled the well, did they do it by hand or with a truck?
I can't see any reason to change from the pipe you had, unless it was cut or had thin spots in it, where it may have rubbed the side. Other than that, the only reason I can think of for them changing the pipe. Is that threaded pipe was easier for the well co. to work with, or they just wanted to sell you new pipe.
The pipe they sold you should be at the very least sch40. Nothing any lighter.
Sch80 with threaded ends, is a much better choice. Over time the pvc will fatigue, and become brittle. That's why sch80 is preferred over anything lighter.
Travis
The wire that was changed, did it have a green ground wire on it?(the wire that was in your well before it was pulled)Last Friday I made a call to the pump distributor I bought all my pumps from for many years. They have 4 locations in central and eastern PA covering about half the state. I was told that existing two conductor cable (without ground) does not have to be replaced when the 2 wire pump is pulled or replaced. A ground wire does not have to be added. Only new construction must have the ground wire from the switch to the 2 wire pump. In other words, the existing is grandfathered. I suspect that it is the same in other states if the pressure switch is not at the well, or if there is no ground at the well. This was 9 -10 years ago, and now I'm remembering more details, and realizing that they are relevant: When we pulled the pump, only 5 - 10 feet of the pipe above the pump was wet, indicating that the water level was now lower. To avoid having the water level go below the pump, we set the pump 10 or 15 feet lower in the hole. I asked them if they could splice on the additional wire rather than replacing all of it (the number of conductors was the same). They said there was no way to do a waterproof splice. I accepted that. Then I watched them attach the pump leads to the new wire with a waterproof splice.
If your old wire did not have this green wire, by law/code it should be changed. But only if your wire did not have this ground wire.
That must have been the real reason for changing out the pipe also. They needed to extend the pipe, and the only pipe on the truck was pvc. They weren't saying that they simply didn't have any polyethelene, though, they were saying that the pvc with brass couplers was the only system worth having.
Maybe replacing the wire and the pipe was reasonable and expedient in this case, but what stuck in my mind was that what they were saying didn't make sense to me. As you see, they could have extended the cable with the same waterproof connectors they used on the cable to motor pigtails. And they could have gone and got a 100' roll of PE and 1 insert x insert coupler and 4 clamps and been done with it.
Your water level may be down lower today and the pump is struggling to keep up with having to pump from that depth but, if you haven't run out of water, the water level has not been getting to the inlet of the pump, and if no air in the water, the leak is under water. Possibly at one of their threaded couplers or the pump's connection or check valve. Gary,
I found the law/rule about changing the wire to the wire with a ground.
Franklin and Jacuzzi got together and got the rule passed some years ago.
It came about when a man was electrocuted and killed trying to install his own pump.
To protect the pump manufactures the rule was passed.
It was met with so much opposition, the rule was dropped shortly after it was passed.
That is why all new sub. motors and all new wire now has a ground wire.
I want to apologize to anyone I may have mislead.
However, grounding any electric motor is always a good idea.
Travis I can say one thing about the green wire. Since the NEC made it code some years back, the amount of motors being Zapped by Lightning has dropped immensely. At least by the scrupulous Pump guys. There are still those who will change out a pump when only a pressure switch was needed.
Being in the Lightning Capitol of the world, we used to see a lot of this.
bob... Pump installers in different areas prefer different types of drop pipe. Since I work all over the world I see metal and copper pipe; PVC and Poly Pipe installed. Personally I prefer Poly Pipe because it can be pulled by hand or by using an Pull-a-Pump on deeper settings and is not so affected when pulling in winter. PVC is OK if you use Schedule 80 with Brass or Stainless Steel Couplings, however it is more tedious to pull in winter. PVC solvent weld isn't recommended in most areas.
Concerning the submersible wire! I would have switched ends and added the spliced wire at the top (out of the water). This way there's only one splice below the water near the pump. In the case of the 2 wire pump. Rather than replacing the 2 wires with 2 wire w/ ground I would have just added a seperate third ground wire (green if you stay with code) and ground it to the pump housing. Unless it's bad there's no reason to replace all the wire!
Lastly, Contract a qualified National Ground Water Association Certified, State Licensed and trusted pump installer. If the company or individual is NGWA and State Licensed (in the state the work is being done) you have some teeth to inforce they do a professional job.
PVC drop pipe comes in threaded 20' lengths. Glue-type pvc fittings should not be used to support weight.
Threaded PVC fittings commonly crack, so is is best to use brass/bronze or stainless couplings.
If it is threaded, than most likely will be schedule 80. If Sch40 PVC is properly Glued it is much stronger than a PVC thread can provide. It is best to use NO threaded couplings. Sch80 would be stronger, but adds a bunch of weight also.
It is best to use the pipe that has the couplings molded in the end of them, 1 fits into the other, glue properly and forget the add on / threaded couplings.
Enjoy your project.
DonL
Choosing the Right Pipe for Your Deep Well Pump
Choosing the Right Pipe for Your Deep Well Pump
Introduction
If you want to learn more, please visit our website SINCO.
When selecting a deep well pump, it is crucial to consider the type of pipe that will be used. The pipe plays a vital role in transporting water from the pump to the surface, ensuring efficiency and durability. In this article, we will explore the various types of pipes commonly used for deep well pumps, including their materials, advantages, limitations, and factors to consider when making your decision. By understanding the options available, you can make an informed choice for your deep well pump system.
PVC Pipe
PVC (polyvinyl chloride) pipe is a popular choice for deep well pumps due to its affordability, durability, and ease of installation. It is made from synthetic thermoplastic material that is resistant to corrosion, chemicals, and weathering. PVC pipes are available in various sizes and lengths, allowing flexibility in adapting to different well depths.
The advantages of PVC pipes include their lightweight nature, which simplifies transport and installation. They are also smooth on the inside, reducing friction and improving water flow. PVC pipes require minimal maintenance and have a long lifespan. However, they have limited tolerance to high temperatures and may become brittle over time if exposed to extreme heat or cold.
HDPE Pipe
HDPE (high-density polyethylene) pipe is another popular choice for deep well pumps, known for its strength, flexibility, and resistance to corrosion. It is made from petroleum-based thermoplastic material that can withstand harsh conditions, making it suitable for long-lasting installations.
HDPE pipes excel in areas with rocky terrain or high water tables where there may be movement or shifting. They are highly resistant to cracking, abrasion, and environmental stress. HDPE pipes can handle high pressures and have excellent hydraulic properties that help maintain water flow rates.
One limitation of HDPE pipes is their higher cost compared to PVC pipes. They are also less rigid and may require additional support during installation. However, their durability, longevity, and resistance to chemicals and UV radiation make them a top choice for deep well pump systems in many applications.
Stainless Steel Pipe
If you are looking for more details, kindly visit Water Well UPVC Filter Pipe.
Stainless steel pipes are renowned for their corrosion resistance, making them an excellent choice for deep well pump installations where water quality or aggressive environments are concerns. They are available in various grades, such as 304 or 316 stainless steel, with each grade offering different levels of corrosion resistance.
Stainless steel pipes have high strength and durability, ensuring long-term reliability. They can withstand high temperatures and pressures, making them suitable for demanding applications. Additionally, stainless steel pipes are non-toxic, maintaining water quality during transportation.
However, stainless steel pipes tend to be more expensive than PVC or HDPE pipes. Their rigidity and weight may also require special handling during installation. Nevertheless, the longevity, corrosion resistance, and hygienic properties of stainless steel make it a preferred choice for certain deep well pump systems.
Galvanized Steel Pipe
Galvanized steel pipes are coated with a layer of zinc to protect against corrosion, making them a cost-effective option for deep well pump installations. They offer excellent strength and durability, making them suitable for use in various environments.
The advantages of galvanized steel pipes include their resistance to rust and weathering. They are also readily available in different sizes and lengths, providing versatility in well depths and configurations.
However, galvanized steel pipes are heavier than other pipe materials, which may complicate installation. Over time, the zinc coating may degrade, leading to potential corrosion. Regular maintenance and monitoring are essential to ensure their continued performance.
Conclusion
Selecting the appropriate pipe for your deep well pump is critical to ensuring efficient water transport, durability, and longevity. PVC, HDPE, stainless steel, and galvanized steel pipes each offer unique advantages and considerations. Factors such as cost, well depth, water quality, and environmental conditions should be carefully evaluated when making your decision.
Consulting with a professional well driller or pump supplier is highly recommended to determine the most suitable pipe material for your specific needs. With the right pipe in place, you can confidently install your deep well pump system, knowing it will provide reliable service for years to come.
If you want to learn more, please visit our website HDPE Dredging Pipes for Philippines.