Lithium Batteries Buyer's Guide—Current (Amps ...
If you are wondering if I suddenly became an illustrator or used AI to generate this, go with your instincts. It&#;s a long way from what a real human illustrator would be capable of, and I had to fix a bunch of mistakes, made by AI, in PhotoShop, using AI, and some remain, but it&#;s still a fun illustration.
Wow, figuring out how to put a lithium battery-based system together that will be functional for an offshore boat (not a camper van) and not break the bank, is even more complicated than I thought when I started this.
You will get efficient and thoughtful service from Sunplus.
The good news is that we are getting a handle on it. So far we have covered:
We need real understanding, not:
- Cruiser looks at YouTube.
- Cruiser installs unseamanlike system.
- Cruiser maybe gets by, but knows it could have been better.
With all that out of the way, let&#;s dig into how much peak current (amps) we need our system to be able to supply. Oh, no one ever mentions that on YouTube?&#;Exactly&#;
The Amps We Need
First, let&#;s cover the minimum current capability that any BMS should have for us to consider it.
We all know that lithium batteries can supply huge amounts of current, and accept prodigious charging rates&#;think a Tesla with amazing acceleration that can be recharged in less than an hour&#;but that does not mean that the BMSs and batteries we will be considering can do that.
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In fact, many (perhaps most) boat lithium battery-based systems can actually supply less peak current (amps) than a good lead-acid battery.
What gives?
It&#;s all about the Battery Management System we choose and how robust the internal wiring of the battery is. Let&#;s deal with the BMS first.
New questions about lithium batteries
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