I LOVE working with felt! The edges don&#;t fray, it&#;s delightfully warm, it takes embroidery beautifully, and it comes in the most luscious colors.

Click here to get more.

But it&#;s different than regular fabric.

These tips will make it super easy to work with.

Why wool felt?

It&#;s way more durable that the cheap acrylic stuff you can buy at any craft store! I wrote a post about the difference here.

One important thing to know &#; it doesn&#;t need to be 100% felt to get that quality boost. The main thing is that it&#;s NOT acrylic. That&#;s what makes cheap craft felt pill. The felt I use is only 20% wool and 80% rayon and it&#;s lovely. If you have allergies and can&#;t work with wool, try bamboo felt instead. It can be harder to find, but it&#;s WONDERFUL!

How to Mark on Felt?

The trickiest thing about wool felt is that it&#;s hard to mark on it. It&#;s so thick that you can&#;t trace a design through it, and drawing on the felt tends to lift the fibers and make it look messy. I use two products that really help &#; freezer paper and Sulky Sticky Fabri-solvy. There&#;s a video here talking about both &#; but here are the details in a nutshell.

Freezer Paper

I use freezer paper when I just want to cut out small shapes. Trace or print the templates on the paper side of freezer paper, fuse it to the felt with an iron, and then cut the pieces out through the paper and the felt together. Peel the freezer paper off and it doesn&#;t leave even a trace behind. It&#;s the perfect way to cut out small shapes very precisely!

If I need to mark dots (usually for eyes) I punch a hole in the freezer paper before I fuse it down, then mark through the hole for very precise placement.

Sulky Sticky Fabri-solvy

If I need to transfer anything more complex than a dot I use Sulky Sticky Fabri-solvy. I love this stuff so much! You print or trace onto the stabilizer, peel off the paper back, and stick it to the felt. Stitch right through the felt and stabilizer and then rinse away the stabilizer. Every trace dissolves in water and you&#;re just left with beautifully stitched felt. I show a lot of process photos demonstrating this in action in this post.

I can&#;t say enough how much I love this product. It has opened up a whole world of possibilities!

Whipstitch

I mostly use whipstitch to applique on felt and to sew felt pieces together. It&#;s called whipstitch for both uses &#; but the stitch actually looks a little different for the two applications.

This video shows how to use whipstitch for felt applique. I love doing this so much!

This video shows how to use whipstitch to sew felt edges together.

You can find all my other felt tutorials here &#; but those are the two main ones.

Free Felt Patterns

Want to give it a try? You can find a whole bunch of free felt patterns here. Baby booties, coasters, garland, softies &#; there are lots of different designs to choose from.

Here are a few of my favorites. . .

This free felt coaster pattern is a great way to get started working with felt. You&#;ll do a little applique and a little embroidery and you&#;ll end up with a pretty set of coasters.

These baby bear booties are just too adorable. This is a terrific first not-flat project.

If you&#;re got a lot of random felt scraps, try this free felt garland pattern. It teaches you a different way to applique and join pieces together &#; the blanket stitch.

Have fun working with felt! It really is delightful. &#;

Happy stitching!

Best,
Wendi

Play with some felt! Try the Oddballs &#; a fun pattern for silly monsters.

Guide to Different Wools for Felting

If you're just starting out felting, the variety of wools available and what they are all for can be pretty daunting! Below is some essential woolly info about some of the most common types of fibre and wool and how they are best used when creating your needle felted project base or adding colours and fine detail. 

There are no hard and fast rules to felting; this guide is based on personal preferences and experience! If you are a Needle Felting beginner, it&#;s best to start with a step-by-step kit which contains all the different wools you need so you can get to grips with the different textures and techniques, then experiment from there (but be careful, it gets addictive!).

Wool generally comes in one of 4 stages of processing

Raw Fleece

Raw Fleece comes with all the dirt and lanolin straight off the sheep's back. You need to process this yourself which can be a long but satisfying experience!

Cleaned Raw Fleece or Locks

Cleaned Raw Fleece or Locks have had all the dirty bits removed and has been washed (and possibly dyed) but is not carded or combed. This is great for using to add effects - there are often some lovely curls you can use.

Tops or Roving

Tops or Roving (these are normally the same thing, the name changes depending on where you are). These are washed and combed so that all the fibres are all going in the same direction. In the UK, roving refers to a top that has been 'drawn' out into a thinner piece ready for spinning. Tops normally come in long lengths wrapped up into balls. This is the type of wool we use in our kits. It's great for needle felting and wet felting and can add a really nice finish to a needle felted piece with all the fibres laying in the same direction. They are easy to find in the UK in almost every breed.

Batts 

Batts have been washed and then carded during which all the fibres are messed up so that they are all facing in difference directions. They come out in chunky sheets. They are great for needle felting core shapes as some of the hard work has already been done for you! You can pull off small pieces easily. They aren't as readily available in the UK as tops.

You won't always find each of the above in every breed of sheep or other fibre. You can normally find tops, but the others might be harder to come by.

Goto Jiatong to know more.

Breeds and other Fibres used for Needle Felting

Merino

Merino is the most common fibre found and popular for felting. It comes in almost every colour imaginable and is normally sourced from Australasia or South Africa. It is very soft with a staple length of about 3-4 inches (length of each fibre) and has barely any crimp. It is great for wet felting but less good for needle felting as it takes so long to felt and often gives a fluffy finish. It is perfect for adding finishing touches and colour to your base project; we would advise making a base core shape using a bulkier wool, such as Jacob, Shetland or Manx Loaghtan, then adding some Merino over the top for detail and colour.

Blue Faced Leicester

Blue Faced Leicester is a long fine wool with a staple length of 4-6 inches. It has a lovely soft feel with a nice lustre. It does take a little longer than some wools to felt but we think that the results are worth it. You can get a wonderful, detailed finish with BFL and it is available in 3 natural colours, including a jet black, and various dyed colours. (Image source: shepherds-delight.co.uk)

Shetland

Shetland is a lovely fine wool with more bulk and crimp to it than Merino. We love working with Shetland and it is a popular wool available in many natural and dyed colours. It can be a little too fine to use for large pieces but is great for beginners.  (Image source of shetland-sheep.org.uk)

Corriedale

Corriedale is a New Zealand breed that has become quite popular for needle felting. It is less fine than Merino, BFL or Shetland and has a lovely crimp meaning it felts quite quickly but can be difficult to get fine details with.

Manx Loaghtan

Manx Loaghtan is a beautiful wool to needle felt with. It has a lot of natural bulk and felts quickly. The natural brown is limiting but if you need that colour for your project it could be the perfect wool for you. You can add a &#;skin&#; of colour over the top using the colourful Merino, Shetland or Blue Faced Leicester wools. (Image source: manxloaghtansheep.org)

Jacob

Jacob comes in more natural colours than Manx but has a similar feel with a medium fineness and a decent crimp making it easy to felt.(Image source: jacobsheepsociety.com)

Herdwick

Herdwick is a pretty hill breed with a courser, dense wool. It is difficult to felt to a neat finish but can add textural interest to a piece. It is only available in grey, but you can often find difference shades to work with.

Alpaca 

Alpaca is very different to sheep's wool but can be fun to add to a piece! It is very fine and has a short staple length but is beautifully soft. It takes a long time to needle felt so we'd only recommend using it to add a 'skin' of colour. It is available in various natural colours including beautiful fawns and rich chocolates.

This is by no means an exhaustive list but covers all the main wools we use here at Hawthorn Handmade! If you fancy trying your hand at Needle Felting, take a peek at our Mini or Large Needle Felting Kits which are perfect for beginners and beyond or browse our Wool Bundles. 

For more Wool Feltinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.