Can You Paint your Aluminium or Vinyl Trims?

&#; Apply painter&#;s tape to seal off the areas that do not need painting.

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&#; Brush a thin coat of the chosen primer.

&#; Allow the primer to dry thoroughly.

&#; Begin painting the vinyl trim. Use even strokes of a thin first coat, and do not forget about the edges!

&#; Wait for the first coat to dry up completely.

&#; Apply as many coats as necessary, ensuring a polished and absolute job.

Fill one container about half to three quarters with the phosphoric acid. It should be deep enough that the part can soak easily but not so deep you have to stick your whole arm in to retrieve the part.

Drop the freshly sanded part into the acid. Try not to get any acid on you. It is fairly mild, but it will burn you. Don't ask me how I know this.

Let the part soak for 30 minutes or so. It's a good idea to flip it over a time or two while it is soaking to make sure the liquid can get to all the nooks and crannies. I go find something else to do; I can't stand 30 minutes of my singing. Maybe read the news. 30 minutes of world problems is about all I can take. The time isn't critical at all but I do find around 30 minutes works well.

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The photo shows my well-used container of phosphoric acid. Note the color: it changes as it is used. I suppose it is from the chemical reactions. But it still works well. Also note the crud on the sides of the container. That is interesting stuff. It is really hard and really hard to clean out. That's one reason I don't recommend using this container for anything else, especially not rinsing. But also, I just keep this container filled with phosphoric acid for various uses. It's also really good for rust removal, but that's a different story. The coffee cup was a gift from my rocket-scientist daughter when she was in school. A bit of gratuitous bragging never hurts! :-)

The second photo shows the reaction taking place in the goop. White foamy stuff comes off the surface of the aluminum.

The third photo shows what it looks like when it comes out of the goop. It has an odd sheen and slightly pink tint.

The fifth photo shows it after it was rinsed and toweled off, air drying.

The last photo shows the crud that settles to the bottom of the rinse water. It's probably the same crud in the etch tank. I am curious what it is.

I'm no chemist and I'm not interested enough to do much research, so take this explanation with an unhealthy dose of salt. I "think" the phosphoric acid converts the aluminum or aluminum oxide or both to some chemical that the paint will adhere to better. Don't quote me on that. But what I do know is it works. My experiments have shown that doing this entire procedure but without this etching step makes the paint stick better, but nowhere near as well as with this etching step. That makes me believe this is the most critical part. I think this falls in the category of "conversion coating."

Once the part is finished soaking, take it out and drop it into another container of clean water. Again let it soak for about 30 minutes or so. You will see a lot of stuff dissolve into the water. Then remove the part and rinse it thoroughly under running water. Dry it off gently with a clean paper towel or two. Note the look of the surface. It will usually be a dull whitish-gray with perhaps a very light pink tint. And it should be uniform across the surface. Let it air dry really well. I find placing it in front of a fan helps a lot, propped up where air can get all around it. Once it is dry it is ready to paint. It is probably a good idea to not wait too long before painting it; we just put a lot of time and effort into cleaning and getting rid of oxide, so why let it get dirty and oxidize again? I usually try not to wait more than a few hours, or a day at most.

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